Rick Owens’ Fall/Winter 2019 Womenswear collection was one that always fascinated and challenged me creatively. As I analyzed its post-apocalyptic chic and transgressive nature, be it through the gender bending volumes, otherworldly silhouettes or disfiguration through body modification, I was incredibly affected by Owens’ ability to transcend time.
Consequently, through my personal collection ‘Bandhan’( loosely translated as bond or tie) I aspire to look at the past and transport my audience through a different time frame. Sifting through personal family photos, I noticed several photographs of my family celebrating the festival of ‘Raksha Bandhan’, (‘a bond of protection’) an ancient Hindu ceremony that celebrates the love between siblings. Traditionally, the sister ties a sacred decorative thread called the ‘Rakhi’ onto the wrist of her brother praying for his good health & long life. In turn the brother promises to protect her. Seeing these, I was motivated to present these fond memories in a relevant and aesthetic construction. Designing a collection that included not only the carefully researched paneling and piping of the festive attire but also the knots, tassels and interwoven details, I hope to represent the physical and emotional tie or bond between two siblings which is the essence of this festival.
This has been translated into my creation through the laborious fabric manipulation that appears as interwoven inserts in the shorts as well as the top. This was constructed by laser cutting a personally developed pattern, followed by weaving printed fabric through the intentional spaces manifested. In contrast, the oversized, asymmetrical jacket shelters, protects and ‘wraps’ the look while also drawing one’s attention to its focal point of- an exaggerated and prominent knot.